[Robertf]

Hi Did you have it chromed or just polish it?

 

[batoutofhull]

The outer is chromed. It was cold and damp outside so it lost a little of its shine.

 

[gnu]

Nice, home made? 😲

 

[Daveyboyz]

Still rubbing these down.

Fabricated from cutting up lexus lights, I want them blended into the car and my decision was prompted by water in the boot. As it turns out the water is getting in elsewhere, its very dry inside and around the lights. Can't really figure it out at the moment. Anyway this job seems way more time consuming than I thought.

 

[batoutofhull]

Nice, home made? 😲

Don't know if you were talking to me? Anyway, the outer chrome part was bought second hand from a car been broken. The inner part that came with it was shot. It did not have all the luggs to hold the surround in place and the key hole did not take a key anymore. More like a screwdriver.
This helped. I took the whole thing to pieces to see if I could put it back together again. There is logic in that statement somewhere. In doing so I found out that the 6 luggs on the later version of the fuel cap could be problematic unless you attempt one at a time. You can not move the solid luggs easily so I started with one of the sprung ones. Then missed out a solid lugg and went on to the next sprung one. After that the inner cap could rotate. How? the solid luggs are on a non connected ring. That stays in place but allows the rest of the inner cap to pivot. In doing so there was more room and the rest came out one at a time. Stripped down the locking part and greased the small pressure release spring. When putting it back together add a little grease/oil to help make the solid luggs slip in to place on the (new to me) chrome ring. One of mine did not straight align straight away. A small hook tool came in very handy.

 

[Daveyboyz]

Rattle canned over some filler. Not a professional job but will keep the rust out.

Got major issues though due to light not working on oil temp gauge. I tried to replace the bulb but that didn't cure it. Volt meter says the lead has no power (maybe I yanked it rewiring the stereo)

I thought the easiest fix would be to take power from the gauge next to it (voltmeter was illuminating correctly when I turn my lights on) tried to identify which lead and that gave up the ghost too.

Now my oil temp warning is on between the speedo and rev counter and none of my instrument lights are working in the centre console or behind the steering wheel.

I pulled some fuses out but couldnt find an obviously dud one.

Help!!!

 

[dert]

Put my 75th up on my ramps to change the broken short gear cable...caught front bumper on road when going up ramp so decided to remove as it will obviously catch going back down. Damage to bumper not that bad, was needing to take off anyway to get it resprayed as it pretty faded. May swap it over to a spare I've got with fog light holes cut in and the all important surrounds, Also started to remove front wings as going to replace both with nice shiny non rusty ones while it up on ramps.

Didn't get cable changed or wings off though, rain and failing light stopped play

 

[Daveyboyz]

Got to the bottom of the wiring issues. A wire had pulled out of its block and shorted killing a fuse. Also the positive wire had pulled out of the gauge and the bulb was not pushed completely home.

At the same time as this job I cut the lighter plug off my camera and wired it to the feed on my stereo so hopefully when I turn on the ignition it will come on automatically. I haven't checked it yet I was just pleased to get everything back together.

Paint I touched in the rear lights with doesn't quite match but it will do for the time being.

 

[Daveyboyz]

Camera caught fire... obviously a transformer in the socket and it doesnt like 12v direct.

 

[gnu]

View attachment 136274

Handy bit of kit.

 

[nocturneblue]

Camera caught fire... obviously a transformer in the socket and it doesnt like 12v direct.

Lighter sockets supply 12V DC - so can't see this can be the cause of your problem (if I understand you correctly).

 

[Daveyboyz]

Yes but the socket you plug into it reduces the voltage further. Since I chopped the plug off and wired in direct the camera got 12v instead of its reduced voltage and burnt out.

Lighter sockets supply 12V DC - so can't see this can be the cause of your problem (if I understand you correctly).

 

[Chris T]

If you want to hardwire the camera into the car you need a buck converter and then set the required output voltage. Buck converters can be picked up for a few pounds.

 

[Daveyboyz]

If you want to hardwire the camera into the car you need a buck converter and then set the required output voltage. Buck converters can be picked up for a few pounds.

Yes or I could have included the electrics inside the plug. It was just a moment of thoughtlessness.

 

[nocturneblue]

Ah, OK, when you said 'transformer' I took that literally as an actual component - two windings of copper on a magnetic armature! They of course only work when supplied with AC. You're using the word to describe what I would call a DC-DC converter or switched-mode converter (i.e. changes one DC voltage to another) - I'm an electronic engineer (power) so get a bit of tunnel vision on what certain electronic engineering words actually mean! ;0)

 

[Daveyboyz]

Excuse my linguistic inaccuracies, I simply thought it transformed the voltage though I pressume you are right that this term applies to ac into dc.

Regardless I have another camera coming... they are now incredibly cheap. I am not sure if the new one is as good (doesnt gave its own screen as it wifis to phone... not sure if it has gps etc) bit its a neater design and I wont blow this one up.

 

[Daveyboyz]

Replaced one of the fusebox clips which was missing (bought one then the original turned up.) Noticed the foot rest looking rather shabby.

Wire brushed it, covered it in rust treatment then gave it a spray.

 

[Chris T]

It seems that the installation of the new camshaft seal didn’t quite go to plan!

 

[MGRV8Boy]

Ripped out the vast majority of my interior to see the condition as the drivers side carpet was wet. It was not too bad although quite a lot of rust on the rear bulkhead.
I have ground all the rust off, painted on Kurust, and will paint it up tomorrow to give it a few more years life.
Now the issue i have is I have ground out as much of the surface rust on the floor pan to put down some Kurust tomorrow so that I can Hammerite it, but one of blanking plugs in the floor pan has given up on life, far too much rust.
When I look online everyone says out of stock, but do we think this is temporary or one of the permanent out of stock? If it permanent could I use any motor manufacturers 25mm blanking plug to stop the water coming in if it won’t be available again?
I’ll get some pictures up as soon as I can.

 

[dert]

Done some more work on my 75th, got both front wings off, then noticed passenger side lower arm needs replacing Anyway, whilst wings off I took advantage of the room available to wire brush and paint crash cans and subframe...Gear change cable being a bit more annoying than expected so removed water pipes to give more room, still not done at moment. Will replace underfloor pipes tomorrow with a set of stainless I've had hanging around for a few years and will also repaint the underfloor strengthening plate. Going to change front arm whilst it still on ramps as will be easier due to the height, also will not fit the new wings I have until the lower arm done. May get spheres re-gassed while I'm at it