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Hi david.anthony ,more specifically, i want add old second key fob from this car which is technically efficient(not broken) but need to be synchronized.My first key fob working well with my car and iam able to turn off the immo.I'm not sure if I will have to enter the code during the reprogramming procedure? The diagnostic tool name MVPRO ,same like on this video
.Thank Your for answer.
 

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Hi david.anthony ,more specifically, i want add old second key fob from this car which is technically efficient(not broken) but need to be synchronized.My first key fob working well with my car and iam able to turn off the immo.I'm not sure if I will have to enter the code during the reprogramming procedure? The diagnostic tool name MVPRO .Thank Your for answer.
 

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Cannot read your reply fully, if the fob has previously been programmed to your car then try this:
Sit in driver's seat, make sure your other fob is well away from the car, press open/close a few times. If unsuccessful, disconnect engine battery, reconnect it and try again with fob, this action may 'reboot' the SCU/BCU. Worth a try anyway
 

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Hi David ,I've tried this method, it did not work with a 3 button remote control. MVPRO allows you to do this but there is a risk that MVPRO diagnostic tool will be requesting for code after clean the SCU memory.The locksmith dont know it because he never did it for a rover cars.It will be known only by those who have already programmed remotes in a situation where we have one working key fob.There are not many cars of this type in my country, so it is difficult to find a specialist.
 

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mg_tf
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BIG THANKS - to Paul

Hi Guys,
Season Greetings and wishing all of you a great 2018.
Just wanna say "WOW what great service we received" from Paul on the replacement of my mate's MG TF SCU and new remote ...
My mate traveled from South Africa to UK with the SCU in tow ..
Paul sorted and replaced all relays and configured the new remote to the SCU.
No fuss no drama ..
I have now refitted the SCU to my mate's MG and all is well ...
That's want i call GREAT SERVICE :grin::grin::grin::grin::grin:..... Thanks Paul
 

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rover_streetwise
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A quick shout out to Paul (technozen) for sorting my horn (missus) - great service, and finally got rid of that darned auto-locking of the doors.

Cheers mate
 

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Facelift MG ZS180 Remote Boot Operation

Have a problem with my sons facelift ZS180 saloon. The boot will not open with the remote fob. With the bootlid closed when I press the remote fob I can hear a relay clicking under the centre console. The remote fob is working fine and locks and opens the car no problem.
I have disabled dead locking and speed locking via T4 as every sensible person would with a car fitted with the Pekron BCU.

With the bootlid open and the locking mechanism latched to fool the system into thinking it is closed, I then press the remote and it functions fine and opens the latch. I also checked power supply for 12v and earth return = 0 Ohms, both good. However when I close the bootlid the remote fob is not opening the bootlid. Working inside the boot it can be seen that the latch is being triggered by the striker plate and is adjusted correctly for function. It seems to me that the latch and striker once closed is earthing through the switch, and have looked at the latch closely to see if any of the insulated terminal are somewhat damaged leaking to earth but it appears not.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the central locking it is noted that an external relay (adjacent to BCU) pull down switch does have a wiring path through the Pektron BCU. Would it be possible that we have a problem with the BCU? or perhaps it is just the bootlid latch itself that is playing up?
 

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mg_zs
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Another HUGE THANKS goes out to Paul (Technozen).


Rapid delivery of replacement pektons and almost instant responses to my HELP emails even though it was the weekend.


The MGR scene is peopled by folk that restore my faith in human nature.
 

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mg_zr
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hi mate.
My mother has a 2005 1.4 MG ZR and the car start by:

doesn't unlock with the fob but disable the immo and alarm
only the driver door open with the key, the engine starts and runs ok.

after a few days the driver window opens alone and does't go up
the boot is unlocking all the time
the front wipers work all alone
the light of low antifreeze blinks as the trunk unlock (1 second frequency)
the engine starts but stops right away

i've replaced the relays but still with the same problems...

should i call a priest to do an exorcism at the car???

can you help me, please?
 

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deceased 05 25, current 05 45
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789 Posts
These may help:
http://forums.mg-rover.org/mg-zr-ro...tailgate-wiring-loom-inspection-guide-467219/


http://forums.mg-rover.org/mg-zr-ro.../cheap-guide-fix-tailgate-wiring-loom-388693/

This is from a tech. bulletin (unfortunately without illustrations):
SCU MALFUNCTION – TRANSIENT SPIKE FROM WIPER MOTOR

Description:
During windscreen wiper intermittent wipe operation, involuntary operation of either of the following may
occur:
• The boot or tailgate latch may electronically release, (unlock sound can be heard from rear of vehicle
and the boot/tailgate light may illuminate)
• The drivers window may open
• The horn may sound
• Auxiliary lamps may flash on and off.
This condition is caused by the emission of a high voltage transient spike from the wiper motor system
during intermittent wipe operation. This causes the SCU to malfunction may result in the above functional
problems.
Action required: (for detailed procedure – see page 2)
• Fit suppressor to the wiper circuit as shown.


Detail:
Rover 25 / MG ZR / Streetwise:
1. Remove lower facia closing panel from drivers side.
2. Remove the upper half of the steering column cowl.
NOTE: Use a trim tool to assist separation, take care not to damage the plastic cowl halves.
3. Locate the rear of the wiper switch and disconnect the 8 way connector.
4. Referring to illustration 1, locate and remove the 10mm fixing nut ‘A’ from the right hand side of the incar
fuse-box.
1
5. Obtain suppressor ‘B’ (part number XBS000040) and position the earth foot between fuse-box lug and
the fixing bracket with the suppressor facing up. Refit fuse-box fixing nut and tighten.
6. Route the suppressor fly-lead up the steering column so that it terminates adjacent to the wiper switch
connector and cut off the bared wires from the end of the lead.
7. Using the IDC connector (part number YPC116330), connect the suppressor fly-lead to the ‘Blue and
Light Green’ wire at the rear of the wiper switch connector (illustration 2).
8. Using black electrical tape, secure the fly-lead to the steering column harness protection, ensure that flylead
is tidy, i.e. that no hanging wire sections exist.
9. Refit the wiper switch connector.
10. Refit the steering column cowls and closing panel.


I have used a distributor type condensor and a general alternator radio suppressor, both were effective. The other part is a scotchlok.
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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............ 2005 1.4 MG ZR......
doesn't unlock with the fob but disable the immo and alarm
only the driver door open with the key, the engine starts and runs ok.

after a few days the driver window opens alone and does't go up
the boot is unlocking all the time
the front wipers work all alone
the light of low antifreeze blinks as the trunk unlock (1 second frequency)
the engine starts but stops right away
As deebees post above, the most likely cause of at least some of these issues is damaged/shorting wires in the tailgate wiring where it passes through the rubber boot at top right of the tailgate opening.


Engine starting and stopping within a couple of seconds is a pretty sure indication that the immobiliser is not disarming - shorts due to damaged tialgate wiring may have corrupted the SCU memory and lost the code that the SCU shares with the engine ecu to disarm the immobiliser. The two units will need to be rematched using suitable diagnostic equipment.
 

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mg_zr
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I haven't the oportunity to check the tailgate wiring, but today i connect the car batery, was able to close the driver window and put the engine running with no problem. After +/- 10 seconds the engine stops, the low coolant light starts blinking and the boot starts opening. Again with 1s frequency...
This time no front wipers and no window down...
I'll try to check tailgate wiring and try to make a video to post.

Thanks for your help
 

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mg_zr
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hi guys
update today.

the tailgate harness is ok. no broken wires, nothing at all.
none of the fobs unlock/lock the car but, when i press any button of the fob, the low antifreeze light blinks in the dash.
when i turn ignition on, the same problem goes on... the low freeze light starts blinking, the boot starts unlocking and now the inner light blinks. these 3 blinks in the same frequency (1 second or less)

if i remove the relays that are clicking below the steering, the blinking stops but the other symptoms continue...

could this be a ic failure??? witch one?
 

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Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
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This could be problem of wipers motor as mentioned above. One test is to disconnect wipers motor and see if problems will dissapear.
This could also be problem of bad earth. Ones of first to look are on the bulkhead and on the left wing.
Last option would be to send BCU for full inspe tion to Technozen.
 

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mg_zr
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i've done that to and checked the earth connections either...

lets wait for Technozen sujestions

if so, i'll send both fobs and scu to him analize
 

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Hello im new here and i have a problem with my mg tf 160 year 2005 he dont wanna start anymore someone told me that it can be the SCU, only problem with the unit is the deadlocking
 

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mg_tf
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Horn not working is it BCU relay

My horn works direct from battery. Have 12V but only 0.5A at the horn connector and I can here the relay make. Will this be the BCU relay at fault?
 

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MG TFTF 85th Anniversary

Hi I have an 85th recently bought and I'm working through my snagging list. Three items although minor are bugging me, the spec for the 85th tells me it should have a 'gear change light' it doesn't or doesn't work! The second is that at ignition switch on the speedo, rev counter, fuel level gauge all flicker momentarily but don't go all the way round! Thirdly is there a 'fasten seatbelt warning light?'

If there is an issue with these could it be the SCU? Any advice would be great. Thanks
 
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