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Discussion Starter #1
Ok here we go,
car was fine, started ok run fine but I didn’t use it as it had a water leak, while I was waiting for it to get new water pump and belts changed I changed the fuel filter, car started fine, a few weeks later when Water pump and belts had been done went to start it and just got clicking, tried jump starting but nothing changed the starter motor for a known good one, and now absolutely nothing, no clicking not even attempting to turn over, immobiliser is working fine, what am I missing before I burn it
 

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Well, that sounds a bit drastic- burn it!
Does the engine turn over on the crank-pulley?
It sounds like a bad earth to the engine or flat battery.
 

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I would check your wiring on the newly fitted starter motor as an initial point do you have 12V on the big lead going to it? If you then, if you remove the solenoid wire, when you turn the key to the start position do you get 12V. If the answer is Yes & No, then if you want to be gung ho about it, make up a flylead, put a terminal on one end, put that on the solenoid terminal, then tap the other end onto the big lead with the key in position 2, it should turn over & start.

WARNING WARNING WARNING If you do try this just think about what you are doing, make sure the car is secure & not likely to drop on you if it starts, make sure it's not in gear, that you haven't got your hands or anything else near any spiny type of things, DON'T do it if it concerns you!

Edit:- Another don't, don't use your finger to press the flylead onto the big lead, it will get hot & it will burn you finger. DAMHIKT
 

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Good advice- Its always best to have someone around when you are crawing under these cars and if jacked- then well supported.
135361
 

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Discussion Starter #5
theres 3 wires going to the starter motor, one with a spade connection and two with ring connectors, both the ring connectors connect to the same terminal, is that right
 

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Yes, you should have a good 12V on the 2 that are on the ring terminals, one comes straight from the battery, the other goes to the alternator, the spade terminal should only have 12V on it when the key is in the start position.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When I turn key I hear the fuel pump priming and like a clicking noise of a relay, I was checking wires were tight and touched two terminals on the starter and the starter turned (I’d forgotten to disconnect battery) terminals were tight but still nothing off the key
 

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Take the wire off the spade terminal, put one end of your multimeter into the terminal on the wire, then the other to earth, on turning the key you should get 12V. The other way is to use a bulb, from the terminal via bulb to earth, bulb should light on turning the key.
 

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If you put a wire on the spade of the starter motor & then touch it onto the ring terminals does the engine turn, if you have the ignition on it may even start.
 

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According to my diagrams there’s a starter relay, this gets its supply from fuse 1 (30A) in the under bonnet fuse box. This relay is operated by the key switch and this feeds via fuse 25 (10A) in the passenger compartment fuse box.

This info is for an earlier model TF and will be slightly different for a late model TF or F
 

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Think you need to go through the fuses if you're not getting voltage on start, but it should have spun over if you bridge the spade terminal to the ring terminal.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Think you need to go through the fuses if you're not getting voltage on start, but it should have spun over if you bridge the spade terminal to the ring terminal.
Any idea where fuse boxes are
thanks for your help
 

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Sorry I no longer have an MG, but pretty sure the fuseboard is under the steering wheel footwell, from the diagram above it says Fuse 19 but you may have to confirm that, you again should get voltage on one side of the fuse in the start position. The other thing to try is to waggle the key around when in the start position, it's not unknown for the ignition lock to go faulty.
 

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From the tests you’ve done the results suggest 2 problems, you’re either unlucky or your methodology is flawed.

Connecting the spade terminal on the starter to the ring terminal should cause the starter to operate. While you do this you need to measure the voltage at the ring terminal to ensure it’s 12V. If it stays at 12V it suggests a failed starter, if it drops to zero (or a lot less that 12V) you have a battery, battery cable or ground fault.

You’ve measured the voltage at the spade terminal while operating the key and got 0V, this suggests a problem further back but could also be related to a bad battery, battery cable or ground fault. When you operate the key, what do the dash lights do?
 
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