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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #65
oops with the pics I have uploaded I thought it best to re paste my post for help :)

Hi Guys - right then - getting there! I have removed the gearbox and also wire brushed it all up and re spreayed it to make it look pretty :)
Whilst it's off I think i may as well replace the rubber seals (I am also replacing gaiters on the drive shafts that have both come out, as this will save jobs later on if I do it all now whilst it's all off - it seems silly not to really!!..

Does anyone know if it is worth changing the bearing in the gearbox too? It's dear but I am wondering if it makes sense to as it ay be a false economy to put the box back in ow without doing so? It has done 85k as things stand...

Also I notice there are so many 'oil plugs' (see: Rover 200/25/MG ZR Transmission Case - 1800/2000 Manual PG1 | Rimmer Bros) on the box.... anyone know why? I drained it by removing the bottom one, but I cannot think wha the other two further up the box are for - can anyone shed any light on it at all?

Finally, I can see one of the replacement rubbers (No.6 from the link) but I cannot see a part number for the one the other side of the box.. any ideas?

As always thanks SO MUCH for all of your help so far..I'm getting there :)
 

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rover_25
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its worth doing the seals, and replacing the release bearing, its not worth opening up the gearbox to replace the bearings, if the box was quiet, dont touch them, you drained the box from the right hole, you refill it at point number 20 on the rimmer bros picture , they're just nipped up,the washers are fine to reuse.
You will need 2.2ltrs of mtf 94, dont use any other oil it has to be mtf 94 or you will cause issues
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #68
135435
Hi guys, thank you so much for your help.. yes the box was always quiet so I will leave the gears alone then (plus im worries that things would spring out if I opened it up lol..

Can I ask - what part number would it be for the other washer from the side of the gearbox? I cannot see on that Rimmer webpage - any ideas?? I can’t see any other diagrams on the website to find the part number..it’s a rubber one….

SO far I have written down what I think I need:

TRX100110SLP (Seal - Differential - LH )

CDU74 - Bearing - Mainshaft - LH


DBM528 - Oil Guide Plate - 68mm - DO I need this part or can I keep the one in there seeing as its not a moving part or rubber seal as such?

DBM540 - Washer - Conical - 75mm -
Rimmers don’t do this any more but I would imagine I should replace this and get it from elsewhere?…

All these bearings show for ‘part 3’ on the breakdown - a Shim washer - every one is for the 1800cc petrol engine yet they are all different sizes - obviously I will pull mine out to measure..weird though how there are so many variants for the same box?? Any ideas why??

DBM555 - Shim 1 50mm
DBM557 - Shim 3 60mm
DBM559 - Shim 5 70mm
DBM560 - Shim 6 75mm
DBM561 - Shim 7 80mm
DBM562 - Shim 8 85mm

Finally, I have noticed the sprung e-clip that I need to remove to get the bearing etc out, is SO tightly sprung… I may have to twist it out of shape in order to remove it, so I would need to order a new one, but again, I cannot see on this diagram where it is - it should be straight after the bearing? Any ideas on the above Q’s?


Thank you and I really do appreciate all of your help :)
 

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rover_25
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you dont need half of that, replace the drive shaft seals and change the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing
URF000122

You dont need touch any of the shims, dont open the box at all
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #70
Hi, what part numbers would the drive shaft seals be then? Are you sure I don't need to replace the bearing (CDU74)?
 

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They are the ‘differential‘ oil seals you want, both sides.

Taking the gearbox apart is not easy, as as you suggest you measure and fit the shims you need. There are lots of sizes to cover the possible variations within the tolerance build up. Unless the bearings were noisy, or you think it’s been running dry, I’d leave alone.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks GNU - maybe I should not undo the clip and remove / replace the bearing and just leave it alone... Instead just change the thrust bearing that came with the clutch kit, and change the differential oil seals (thanks for the link btw!) :)
 

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rover_25
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Thanks GNU - maybe I should not undo the clip and remove / replace the bearing and just leave it alone... Instead just change the thrust bearing that came with the clutch kit, and change the differential oil seals (thanks for the link btw!) :)
yes just do that, the reason there are so many shims is because the pg1 was in loads of different cars with different power outputs, some had torsen diff's in, different gear ratios, extra bearings etc
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #75
yes just do that, the reason there are so many shims is because the pg1 was in loads of different cars with different power outputs, some had torsen diff's in, different gear ratios, extra bearings etc
ahhh ok - makes sense.. Ive read nothing but good things about the gearbox to be fair
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #79
Yes no-one can tell me - I am ordering one and then I think I will have everything I need with the rest of the parts - hopefully I will continue to crack on with this from the end of the week!...
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #80
Hi guys - does anyone have any advice for a small bolt at the bottom of the gearbox.. I cannot even line it up as the exhaust is higher than hole, so you can't possibly line up the bolt with the hole to even get it started.. The only thing I can think of is to remove the exhaust, but that seems crazy for one bolt.. Just wondering for those of you who have done the job, if you remember this, what you did about it?
 
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