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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #41
That looks like what we used to refer to as a C - lock pin, which has a tapered end to aid it being punched into the hole - tapered, since is a slightly larger diameter than the hole, and compresses to go in.
Bit of a *** to drift out I would imagine since the shaft it’s in is not rigid? and tapping force is reduced.
god help me lol why is this so hard?! It must be the 'pin' That I need to somehow remove though otherwise I do not see any other way of removing it, nor anything else to remove instead? Do we think this is the piece I need to remove? What about those of you whom have removed this before..is this the correct piece?
 

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Doesn’t look like the pin I drifted out of mine. Looks a bit like a roll pin but has too thin walls. prob what Austin said, though not come across C lock pins myself. Keep at it. Try from the other side as well.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #43
Doesn’t look like the pin I drifted out of mine. Looks a bit like a roll pin but has too thin walls. prob what Austin said, though not come across C lock pins myself. Keep at it. Try from the other side as well.
Hi mate - trouble is I cannot get at it from the top as its too close to the chassis... Unless its not that pin but one from the other picture I added, having said that, I cannot 'punch' that one through because as you can see from the picture, it has a lip on in..I then wondered if that unscrewed, but its such a thin lip it would be impossible to grip and twist easily... errrr I am now stuck lol
 

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As in the thread I linked above I was stuck in the same position, but trying a variety of tools and methods it eventually moved. I replaced it with a bolt and locknut on a slotted sleeve to tighten up the linkage.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #45
As in the thread I linked above I was stuck in the same position, but trying a variety of tools and methods it eventually moved. I replaced it with a bolt and locknut on a slotted sleeve to tighten up the linkage.
So is it the piece I have circled in the pic please?
 

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Yeah, have a look at the link on post #35. I replaced the pin with a bout and locknut on reassembly, and slotted the sleeve to tighten things up.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #47
OK gnu thank you ever so much... sorry for some reason I didn't see that link before.. right I will be doing that first thing tomorrow - thank you! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Thanks guys.. gnu - I had caked it in WD40 (the extra strong releasing one) and the used a special punch with a hammer and just kept on battering it lol...

So the drive shaft is also now out (will replace the rubber boots/gaiters whilst its off) and I have re-hammerite-d a few bits underneath, and loosened the gearbox bolts... Tomorrow weather permitting, I will remove the gearbox and go to work on replacing the clutch.. not sure quite how to lower and remove the box tho lol.. my dad has a makeshift chain thing but I'm not not convinced..

Here's a thought.. I don't suppose there is a 6 speed box I can swap for the PG1 is there?! I ask as its so heavy on fuel after 65/70 lol....
 

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If you jack and stand the car high enough you can lower it on a trolley jack and manoeuvre it from under the car by manhandling. The PG1 is slightly heavier than the R65 in the link below, but the principle is the same. However, if you have a hoist, that may be easier?

Rover 214 Gearbox & Clutch Replacement - Picture Diary

dunno about a 6 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
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Hi Guys - right then - getting there! I have removed the gearbox and also wire brushed it all up and re spreayed it to make it look pretty :)
Whilst it's off I think i may as well replace the rubber seals (I am also replacing gaiters on the drive shafts that have both come out, as this will save jobs later on if I do it all now whilst it's all off - it seems silly not to really!!..

Does anyone know if it is worth changing the bearing in the gearbox too? It's dear but I am wondering if it makes sense to as it ay be a false economy to put the box back in ow without doing so? It has done 85k as things stand...

Also I notice there are so many 'oil plugs' (see: Rover 200/25/MG ZR Transmission Case - 1800/2000 Manual PG1 | Rimmer Bros) on the box.... anyone know why? I drained it by removing the bottom one, but I cannot think wha the other two further up the box are for - can anyone shed any light on it at all?

Finally, I can see one of the replacement rubbers (No.6 from the link) but I cannot see a part number for the one the other side of the box.. any ideas?

As always thanks SO MUCH for all of your help so far..I'm getting there :)
 
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