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After 3 dream journeys in June & July, my V6 refuses to start!
Not the faintest clicking, no ticking, nothing at all when I put the key in the starting position.
Everything is switched on as usual, dash & counters, lamps, radio is able to work.
When I try to start, the fan is stopping as - I assume - it does in such a situation: mind that when the engine is starting and all is fine, I don't notice everything working...

The battery, a strong AGM Banner - 2 1/2 years - looks fine, very well cared for, regularly charged and tested gives 12.7V.
The starter - 1 1/2 year - is a nearly new one, sold as refurbished in Nov 2018. I assume that the solenoid was changed and was new.
The car is always garaged when at home.
Not even the slightest mark of moisture or rot anywhere, the whole car is very sound.

I thought it could be the immobilizer but I've successfully tried to open, lock & reopen the car with the fob, and it works fine (red light first clicking fast, then slowly and regularly when car is locked). Could the key not be recognized all the same when inserted?
How could I know if it's the immobilizer or not?

It's scary & I'm lost... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm an absolute ass, a desperate driver! I thinks it might be the horrific heat we are suffering of at the moment. Here is the evidence I was hopeless when I attempted to start!

 

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rover_600
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The key fobs for our cars have a dual system the door open close buttons program through the cars ECU and have a range of tricks they can do on one push and two push of the buttons.
The security feature of the fob is a small chip located on the outside edge of the key fob this contains a code that is read by the magic ring at the ignition switch. A correctly cut key will lock and unlock everything a correctly programmed fob will do as the car is programmed to. However the car must have the transducer code programmed into it for the key you are using to allow it to start the car. The car can be programmed to have up to six keys start it. I know this is of little help but it gives a brief outline of how the system works.
I have known cars to loose their programmed codes not usually overnight as they are written to eprom and this should not be affected by any outside source.
An interesting one, sounds like may need a session on a computer to see what the car thinks is happening and to see if the chip reader is working.
Are you using a different key? As each key has an individual chip which the car has to be programmed to recognise. Also when replacing fob covers you have to transfer the small chip over.
Whilst the buttons may open doors the chip is separate from the circuit board that the ignition switch reads.
Hope this is of some help.
Alan


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rover_600
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Put the car in park or Netrual. It will start. I am so glad it is not just me.
Alan


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rover_600
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Automatics should have a device that stops you taking the key out unless the car is in park. Would save so much confusion.
Alan


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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you @alanaslan for your kind contributions. It's ever helpful when you're not alone in your misery.
The fact is I don't understand why my auto gear lever had been put in the drive position.
A good lesson nevertheless: I should have look at was was indicated in front of me but I had two little grandchildren - the smaller not very patient! - on the back seat to take home, that's my excuse. Hence we took the 25 without air con... :eek:
 

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Well, the best result. Nothing needs doing to the car, and the driver learns something. However, your family probably will not forget!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, the best result. Nothing needs doing to the car, and the driver learns something. However, your family probably will not forget!
I think there are some more important things for my wife, daughter & son-in-law than a ridiculous mistake done by myself in the 75 because all is well that ends well and no harm had been done to anybody or anything. With fully opened windows the 50km journey in the 25 was bearable even with more than 35°C outside! Even my naughty (but lovely) granddaughter didn't complain! We are now used to such heats...
 

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Similar problem with an 2003 v6 ZTT....except a manual!!

New battery a couple of weeks ago.....all well until last Wednesday starter made no attempt to turn engine....until about the 6th turn of the key, when it started as normal.

Next day, it started when leaving home OK, but for the return journey, despite many turns of the key no attempt of the starter to work. Ended up leaving the car overnight.

Went back next morning and it started with the first turn of the key and no problems since. Took it to my local friendly garage, who could not find any fault codes and verified it starts with both keys.

A good old intermittent problem.....unless anyone as other idea I guess it's air cleaner off and check all the connections down the starter. But wondering if this is an immobiliser problem
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If it be an immobilizer problem, you should have a red light switched on in the middle of the controls in front of you, am I right?
I smell a solenoid problem. My 75 had a similar reaction last year, I swapped the starter and nothing wrong since.
Or a bad earth somewhere...
You'll have to check from the most likely to be, I'm afraid.
 

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Thanks, at the moment I can't reproduce the problem....starts every time....no doubt waiting till I'm in a wet and windy car park far from home!

Do you know if the ignition switch wired straight to the solenoid or are there any relays involved which might be flakey?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, at the moment I can't reproduce the problem....starts every time....no doubt waiting till I'm in a wet and windy car park far from home!

Do you know if the ignition switch wired straight to the solenoid or are there any relays involved which might be flakey?
I can't help you very much on that matter because my mechanic did the job. But here is the sketch from Haynes if it's of any help.
135565
 

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Assuming you’ve checked the connections and earth? Yes worth checking the relay. If both ok, I suggest next time it won‘t start, bang the starter motor with a hammer. Try starting again. If it does start, again, then get a new or refurbished starter.
 

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I have checked the wiring and cleaned connections......no problems found.

Lots of successful starts but two more failures.....they seem more likely to happen if the car is stopped after a short run.

There is no clicking from the solenoid when to problem happens.......which makes me think that this is not a problem of worn solenoid contacts......but the solenoid not operating / sticking when the (new) battery is a bit l depleted from a recent start.

BTW I haven't be able try hitting the start with a hammer yet as the failures haven't happened at home yet.

PS what is the cost of a recon starter?
 

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I haven't bought one for a while so I'd just shop around and see what the current prices are....
 

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There will be cheap Chinese ones available from on line factors via. EBay etc. You will probably be spoilt for choice at wallet pleasing prices, and they might even work when you take them out of the box, but.....
If you want to buy quality? What make to buy? Good question with some of the good brands now being simply bought- out brand names.
No doubt someone will come along with sound advice.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'd bought a recon starter in 2018 "S663 Rover 75 2.0i 2.5i V6 24V Auto 1999-2005 Starter Motor" (£100 approx.) on Ebay at phoenix-marine-electrics in the UK. A good genuine one and a very 100% reliable seller. No problem since.
 
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