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Discussion Starter #1
A lot of people asking recently, so I copied this from a manual I have.

Coolant bleed procedure:
1. Ensure all hose connections are tight following any engine repair or service coolant drain.
2. Locate the inlet manifold bleed valve (arrowed in illustration 1 – all models) and remove bleed hose from valve. Connect a suitable tube to the valve spout and blow through to ensure valve pin is not sticking. Remove tube from valve spout, refit bleed hose and secure with clip.
NOTE: Inlet manifold bleed valve pins are prone to sticking to their seats, freeing this pin will allow air to bleed from the cylinder head during coolant fill.

All models
3. Turn heater temperature control to maximum heat position.
4. Remove bleed screw and sealing washer from coolant rail (see illustrations 2 and 3 – R25/45/75) or the radiator and heater bleed nipple (Illustration 4 – MGF).
5. Prepare coolant to required concentration, see workshop manual section; ‘CAPACITIES, FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS, Anti-Freeze Concentrations.
6. Fill system slowly until a steady flow of coolant is emitted from the bleed point.
7. Refit bleed screw to coolant rail and tighten to 9 Nm, (ensure sealing washer is re-fitted). Tighten bleed heater nipple (MGF).
9. Models with A/C; Ensure air conditioning is switched off.
10. With expansion tank cap off, start and run engine at 1500 – 2500 rev/min. Fill expansion tank as necessary to maintain coolant level just below expansion tank neck. When coolant starts to rise up expansion tank neck, due to heat expansion, fit expansion tank cap.
11. Continue running engine at 1500 – 2500 rev/min until cooling fan comes on, then run engine at idle speed until cooling fan stops.
12. Switch off engine and allow to cool for 30 minutes.
13. Check cooling system for leaks.
14. Remove expansion tank cap and, if necessary, top-up coolant to MAX level.
WARNING: Do not remove the filler cap from the coolant expansion tank while the system is hot.
15. Refit expansion tank cap.

Additional bleed (MGF only):
1. Allow engine to cool.
2. Release clip and remove inlet air hose from throttle housing.
3. Top-up the expansion tank.
4. Remove bleed screw from radiator return rail (see illustration 5).
5. When a constant flow of coolant is being emitted from bleed point, fit bleed screw and tighten to 9 Nm.
6. Fit inlet hose throttle housing and secure with clip.
7. Check level of coolant, top-up to ‘MAX’ mark on expansion tank if necessary.

I can't add pictures because they may be copyrighted. The illustration 1 is the little "jiggle valve" on the inlet manifold that it's often referred by.

HTH someone

;)
 

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I did look and there isn't a guide anywhere. If needed I have the PDF on my computer.
I'm not sure how you upload it to a post but I know Technozen has done it in his PRT thread. Maybe add attachment?

Think people would benefit from the PDF so would be worth the upload.
 

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k series

It's a rover technical bulletin so I'm not sure if it would be allowed as of copyright.

http://google.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=333315
http://google.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=289697

Try this.
Wait for the engine to cool down.
Remove coolant tank cap.
Set heater to 'Hot'.
Empty coolant from system (bottom radiator hose).
Secure bottom hose.
Open bleed screw on coolant rail.
SLOWLY fill the system with fresh coolant until it freely runs from the bleed screw.
Close bleed screw.
SLOWLY continue to fill system - keep squeezing the hoses so you can hear them fill with coolant.
Secure coolant cap.
Run engine AT IDLE for 15 to 20 mins or until the fan kicks in. Do not rev the engine.
Switch off engine and allow to cool completely.
Top up with coolant to 'Max' mark.
Your system should now be filled correctly.

DO NOT run the engine with the coolant cap off. The pressure in the system and the antifreeze raise the boiling point of the fluid. The system expects this. Running with the cap off can cause bubbles in the system and removing the cap can cause the fluid to boil explosively - don't do it!
 

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Another trick is to cut a bottle in half, drill a hole through the cap and put this upside down in the header tank opening, then pour the coolant into this.

This stops coolant "gulping" into the header tank reducing the chances of airlocks :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
http://google.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=333315
http://google.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=289697

Try this.
Wait for the engine to cool down.
Remove coolant tank cap.
Set heater to 'Hot'.
Empty coolant from system (bottom radiator hose).
Secure bottom hose.
Open bleed screw on coolant rail.
SLOWLY fill the system with fresh coolant until it freely runs from the bleed screw.
Close bleed screw.
SLOWLY continue to fill system - keep squeezing the hoses so you can hear them fill with coolant.
Secure coolant cap.
Run engine AT IDLE for 15 to 20 mins or until the fan kicks in. Do not rev the engine.
Switch off engine and allow to cool completely.
Top up with coolant to 'Max' mark.
Your system should now be filled correctly.

DO NOT run the engine with the coolant cap off. The pressure in the system and the antifreeze raise the boiling point of the fluid. The system expects this. Running with the cap off can cause bubbles in the system and removing the cap can cause the fluid to boil explosively - don't do it!

Not sure why you decided to add any further suggestions.

Mine was taken from the Rover technical bulletin for the workshop.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No don't mind, its just the bit about not running with cap off. That is crucial with the k series when following that procedure. I wrote it with the intention of giving people the opportunity to bleed their k series as described in a technical bulletin for the rover workshop technicians. The idea is to reduce air locks. Hence the slightly different technique than any other model cars.

If people keep adding their own ways or tips it just sways away from the point of the thread. I thought it could be stickies for reference.
It's how I was trained to bleed k series long time ago.

Also I can forward the bulletin if people want it, just give me your email.
 

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You can check that this is not sticking without taking the little hose off. If you give the radiator hose a few good hard squeezes you will hear this valve making a metallic click. if you don't hear it then it's either been removed or its stuck. I've freed them up just by flushing with Holts Speedflush.
 

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Can this be stickied?
If your car in previous ownership has not had its coolant regularly renewed as recommended, then chances are the 'jiggle valve' near Cylinder No. 1 on the Inlet Manifold is blocked with crud built up over the years and miles. Not unusual to find it completely blocked with crud. It's a simple job to unblock that valve and that will enable you to bleed the cooling system correctly when renewing the coolant or indeed after refilling the drained the system prior to renewing a worn out IMG. Here's a cleaned jiggle valve in the manifold.
Autor MGJohn

 
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