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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I’m new here having only bought a 2002 TF last week. I’ve already done some simple jobs but I’ve come across a problem that I hope people here may be able to help with.

I’m unable to turn the key in the drivers door lock. It simply stops around 5 mm of twist in each direction. The car unlocks fine with the remote, and the key unlocks the boot, fuel tank and starts the car no problem. I’ve tried lubricating the lock to no avail.

I’ve seen central locking lock sets are not too expensive, so should i change over all locks/ignition barrel? And if so, would this have an effect on the immobiliser?

thanks in advance!
 

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Hi Andyp159 I had the same symptoms in Jan with my TF; key twisted a bit then the whole lock twisted too. Well stuck; no effect on locking. No amount of lubing/penetrating oil/silicon spray down the lock made any difference over the next couple of days.
Researching parts diagrams found that the lock barrel isn't part of any electrics or central locking
New locks came as sets + locksmith prices were stupidly expensive so I decided to take it out, meanwhile ordering a used lock + it's own key (which thankfully wasn't needed...) for £10
When removed I was able to soak the tumblers with release oil and gradually worked it free using it's key (but still a little stiff) then left it all-day in a jam jar of paraffin shaking it occasionally, then overnight. It was totally free in the morning so I soaked it in brake cleaner to remove the paraffin then doused the tumblers with loadsa release oil + silicon spray etc
I've put it back in and frequently check it works/silicon spray the key blade.
I think I contributed to or posted a thread on here about lock-barrel removal on one of the forums...
(I think the key lock had been only sparingly used, which might explain the seizure.)
 

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Yep my threads on this forum called 'TF driver door keylock probs'
Within that thread is a link to 'Exterior door handle replacement' which I found really useful too.
It's on Page 7 as you go back over these threads. Good luck :)+ keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@ArntyR - thanks a lot. Nice to know it’s not just me that this has happened to! I did read a lot of articles about seized or sticking locks - but nothing seemed to exactly match what I was experiencing. I guess I just didn’t look hard enough 😂

I’ll try taking out the door lock and let you know how it comes along. I think the release pins the drivers door are a bit sticky too so can take a look at that while I’m there!

Thanks again!
 

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From memory you have to move the window up/then down to get at two bolts behind the door card that hold the handle in place and the clip that holds the lock barrel in place is a bit of a pain, but it's do-able. Easier with 3 long arms tho'...
Graphite/pencil lead on the key blade is another lubricant trick I'll try.
Initially a good soaking in solvent is the way to go imo.
Just a thought - If you have a round Pektron key fob it might be a good time to consider the scu/bcu (behind the heater knobs) relays. These were of infamously low quality originally and, since they have the potential to double-lock you out of the car, many TF owners are having at least 2 or all 5 of these relays upgraded with much better parts. Google 'Technozen' for some precautionary advice...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@ArntyR - thanks for the advice. I’ve actually got the earlier Lucas system, which from my understanding is a little bit more reliable - that being said It’s safe to say I won’t be locking my car with the fob until I’ve resolved the key issue!

thanks again!
 

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Ah, while you're there Andyp159 please can you please confirm that you have the option to single lock with your Lucas remote, then click once again to double-lock /super-lock?

I know that (later) Pektron TFs double-lock with only one push of the remote button - there isn't the option to separate the locking process with another click.

I ask 'cos this came up on a thread before and I don't think it was answered clearly. It was thought that the Pektron single-double-lock was an 'enhancement' that served to add to the mysteries of TF ownership :(

If that IS the case you should be able to single lock yours and open it with the key if something goes amiss. Us Pektron folks don't have that option - once it double-locks we're in trouble :((as I found out to my cost with my last TF...) which gives rise to 'Pektron superlock anxiety'...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yes, It seems I can double lock it with the key as you describe.

The drivers door lock is a bit sticky right now so I’m going to avoid doing that while I investigate - another job on my growing list of tasks haha!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just an update on this. So I dismantled the drivers door today, stripped out the handle and door lock mechanism to take a look and see what was going on.

We’re still not entirely sure, however it looks as if one of the pulls inside the lock barrel was broken/twisted.

I’d already bought a replacement lock barrel for a few pounds on eBay, so I stripped them both back, adjusted it to fit my key by rearranging the pulls and refitted.

Presto! My little mg now locks again.

In case anyone reading this is wondering, swapping over the lock barrel wasn’t that hard. I have hardly any experience with this kind of stuff and could do it following guides online quite easily. It took around 2 hours to remove (mainly through my stupidity), and about 45 mins to reassemble.
 

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That's good news :) Good to have feedback and, yes, that job's much easier with an extra hand on the other side of the door.
So, did you get the replacement lock to work with your original key or your original lock to work by changing/rearranging the 'pulls' (the bits inside them)? When I was 'up against it' in Jan I wasn't looking to get at the inside of the barrel; my first action was to go down the route of penetrating oil. Intrigued. :unsure: I'll dig out my spare barrel later and have a look.
(It would solve the confusion of having a different door key and ignition key if you have to replace the lock?)
 
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