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Adjusting Wastegate linkage

13K views 55 replies 22 participants last post by  Postman Matt  
#1 ·
Hi all, had a look at upping the turbo boost by adjusting the linkage. My main concern is how difficult is it to do this particular mod, with regards to refitting the linkage to the actuator rod, and also bearing in mind you could say that im a novice at this engine tuning business
Thanks, Dunny.
 
#2 ·
check which type you have, as there are 2 types.
1 you have to take the linkage off the actuator and adjust it(which can be hard to get back on).
the other version has an adjuster you can turn with the linkage still on the actuator(i have this type and it takes 2mins to adjust)

that pic is the type you can adjust with it still on the actuator
 
#31 ·
check which type you have, as there are 2 types.
1 you have to take the linkage off the actuator and adjust it(which can be hard to get back on).
the other version has an adjuster you can turn with the linkage still on the actuator(i have this type and it takes 2mins to adjust)

that pic is the type you can adjust with it still on the actuator

hi does any one have a picture of the other type? (just 4 curiosity)

cheers

star
 
#3 ·
shakenNstirred said:
check which type you have, as there are 2 types.
1 you have to take the linkage off the actuator and adjust it(which can be hard to get back on).
the other version has an adjuster you can turn with the linkage still on the actuator(i have this type and it takes 2mins to adjust)

that pic is the type you can adjust with it still on the actuator
Otherwise if you have the none adjustable one, be prepared for some loud cursing etc.

It is a bugger to get back on, as you have made the adjuster shorter. I use a pair of 'mole' grips on it and eventually got it latched on to the actuator. A lot of hassle this way, but well worth the pain and the agrovation.

Cheers
Skelo
 
#6 ·
If you have the cursing type wastegate, try using a medium sized slot screwdriver to lever the linkage back over the pin, and push down on the top side with another screwdriver etc. to get it to clip into place. Finally refit the circlip (if it hasn't disappeared!)

Has worked for me several times, fairly easy when you've got the "knack"
 
#9 ·
Having removed the guts from my cat I have noticed an increase in white smoke.

I realise the obvious is pump timing BUT is it possible that the waste gate linkage HAS been adjusted and is overfuelling the car.

I would have thought the ecu would raise a fault through over boost / fueling without a tuning box fitted BUT if someone has chipped or fiddled something to allow the car to run extra boost or fuel could this extra fuelling give the white smoke.

Sounds a long shot but I am trying to cover all the bases.

If my theory IS true then a tune am box would be the next step and should make better use of the extra fuelling.
 
#10 ·
forehead said:
Having removed the guts from my cat I have noticed an increase in white smoke.

I realise the obvious is pump timing BUT is it possible that the waste gate linkage HAS been adjusted and is overfuelling the car.

I would have thought the ecu would raise a fault through over boost / fueling without a tuning box fitted BUT if someone has chipped or fiddled something to allow the car to run extra boost or fuel could this extra fuelling give the white smoke.

Sounds a long shot but I am trying to cover all the bases.

If my theory IS true then a tune am box would be the next step and should make better use of the extra fuelling.
After adjustment to about 19psi, there is (i think) 3 full threads of adjustment left on the adjusting screw.

Now get yourself one of rons tuneams!!!

Cheers
Skelo
 
#11 ·
If you turn the boost up too much on a car without a tuning box you'll get fuel cutting at full throttle (to protect the engine).

I'd not go on anyone's recommendations as to how many threads are left showing on the actuator because actuators vary. The best bet is to either read the boost from the boost sensor (figures on rover-rons site). Or install a boost gauge either permenantly or temporarily.
 
#13 ·
Adjust the wastegate to increase boost pressure going into the turbo, gives more power and torque. When i adjusting mine i got the actuator pushed back on again by putting a foot pump onto it and then pumping the actuator out and just slip it on again, was really easy no cursing involved.
 
#15 ·
The thing that makes me wonder is that I cant see much room to adjust the linkage any closer, making me think its already been fiddled with.

Boost guage fair enough but where is the safest point to tee into. Aren't there any spare connections or tees already fitted?

I've read the one about chopping into the line to the map sensor but dont like the idea of that.
 
#19 ·
Miky060 said:
Hi,
I did the same today morning (I have the other type.. It took 1 hour!! :bored: ). Now I am at 1,3Bar = aprox 19psi. Isn'it too much? Can I broke something?
The strange thing is that before I modified it I tested the pressure and it was already at 1,1Bar on my 220SDi. Isn't this strange?
19psi is just right. Not too much and not too little.

Cheers
Skelo
 
#23 ·
@ursus-2
boost gague :) However my mechanic did everything. We went to do a drive before and after the operation to make the measurement.

@E_T_V
Here too! The same!
I turned mine up a little and now I'm getting boost cut. I've got Ron Tune AM Pro boxe fitted which should prevent boost cut so now I'm very confused.
Ron, any suggestion?
 
#25 ·
Miky060 said:
@ursus-2
boost gague :) However my mechanic did everything. We went to do a drive before and after the operation to make the measurement.

@E_T_V
Here too! The same!
I turned mine up a little and now I'm getting boost cut. I've got Ron Tune AM Pro boxe fitted which should prevent boost cut so now I'm very confused.
Ron, any suggestion?
Possibly the threshold is lower on your car for some reason.

Have you tried turning the map booster control down a little (anticlockwise) this usually helps?

Ron